The powerboat angler's kit: required gear, a breakdown kit and first aid for hooks and blades
A powerboat adds speed, an engine, a battery and a lot of hooks in a small space. That means two kinds of kit: the gear the law requires so you can be found and stay afloat, and the practical tools that turn a dead motor or a hook in a hand into something you can handle. This guide covers the required items on the TPWD page for powerboats from 16 feet to less than 26 feet, then the tools you add yourself. Other length classes have different lists, so read TPWD's page for your boat.
What TPWD requires on a 16-to-26-foot powerboat
- Life jackets: one Coast Guard-approved wearable device for each person on board, and passengers under 13 must wear a Type I, II or III wearable life jacket while the vessel is underway, meaning not anchored, tied to shore or aground. Inflatables are allowed only as their approval label says.
- A throwable: one Type IV device on board and readily accessible. A cushion or ring buoy that is buried in a locked compartment is not readily accessible, so keep it where you or a passenger can grab it in seconds.
- A fire extinguisher: one Coast Guard-approved type B-1 marine-grade extinguisher, except on open-construction outboard motorboats under 26 feet with no permanently mounted gas tanks. It must be readily accessible and ready for immediate use.
- Visual distress signals: approved for day and night use, required when operating in coastal state waters, accessible, working and unexpired.
- A sound-producing device: a whistle, horn or other device capable of an efficient sound.
- Lights: Coast Guard-approved red and green side lights and a white all-around light when not at the dock, from sunset to sunrise and in restricted visibility.
- Ventilation for vessels using volatile fuel (open-construction vessels are exempt), a backfire flame arrestor on gasoline engines installed after April 25, 1940 (outboards are excepted), and an exhaust water manifold or factory-type muffler.
The engine cut-off switch
An engine cut-off switch is a lanyard (or a wireless fob) that shuts the engine off if you are thrown from the helm. The U.S. Coast Guard says the federal rule applies to recreational vessels less than 26 feet with an engine capable of 115 pounds or more of static thrust (about 3 horsepower), that operators must use the link while running on plane or above displacement speed, and that the link is not required when the main helm is inside an enclosed cabin, or when docking, trailering, trolling or in no-wake zones. It says manufacturers were required to install the switch starting in December 2019.
TPWD's page says that in Texas, if the boat is equipped, the switch, lanyard or wireless device must be attached to the operator, their clothing or their life jacket and worn when the boat is above headway speed. The operator must confirm the system works before operating on public waters. Texas does not require adding one, and an original switch may not be removed.
The breakdown kit you add yourself
The law lists what keeps people afloat and findable. These are the practical items that keep a small problem small. This list is our suggestion, not a requirement:
- A small tool roll: adjustable wrench, pliers, a screwdriver set, and the sockets and wrenches your motor and trolling motor actually use.
- Spare fuses that match your panel, a few spare connectors and electrical tape.
- A spare propeller with its hardware, and the wrench to change it, for the trip when you hit a stump.
- A jump pack, or jumper cables if a second battery is aboard, for a weak starting battery.
- A bailer or a manual bilge pump, a coil of rope, a paddle and an anchor with line long enough for your water.
- A flashlight and a headlamp, a charged phone in a waterproof pouch, and a handheld VHF if you run on the coast.
- Water, sunscreen and a hat. TPWD's card lists water and sun protection for every outing.
Hooks, fish and a crowded deck
- Hook cutters with real leverage, kept where you can reach them. A thrashing fish with a treble hook can leave another hook in your hand or leg, and cutters let you cut the shank or the point and free yourself from the fish.
- Long dehookers and a net or grippers, so your hands stay away from the hooks. TPWD says to use hemostats or needle-nose pliers and a net, and that smaller fish can be held upright by the lower jaw, with wet hands.
- A fish you do not plan to keep goes back in the water quickly. See the handling guide.
- A clear deck. Tangled line, loose hooks and things underfoot make injuries more likely, so coil, clip and stow before you run.
First aid: hooks and bleeding
First-aid notes here come from MedlinePlus and other pages named at the bottom, and they are for information only. They are not medical advice and do not replace a clinician, 911 or Poison Help at 1-800-222-1222. If you are unsure, get medical care.
For a hook just under the skin, MedlinePlus describes the line method or pushing the point through and cutting it behind the barb. It says not to try if the hook is deeply embedded or near a joint, tendon, eye, eyelid or artery, that a hook in the eye needs the nearest emergency room, and to keep tetanus shots current, with boosters every 10 years.
For serious bleeding from a blade, a prop or a deep hook wound, the American Red Cross says to call 9-1-1, place a dressing and apply steady, firm pressure directly over the wound, and hold it until the bleeding stops or a tourniquet is available. It lists signs of life-threatening bleeding as blood loss about the size of half a soda can, blood flowing continuously or spurting, and signs of shock, and says to use a tourniquet only if trained. It also says not to try to remove an embedded object, because that can make bleeding much worse. If you want a tourniquet in the kit, take a class first; Stop the Bleed offers training.
Carbon monoxide
The Oregon State Marine Board says carbon monoxide can collect in enclosed spaces such as under swim platforms and in cabins, that early symptoms include irritated eyes, headache, nausea, weakness and dizziness (often mistaken for seasickness), and that anyone affected should get into fresh air at once and get medical care. It advises keeping fresh air moving through and around the boat, installing a carbon monoxide detector, and turning engines with transom exhaust ports off when people are swimming behind the boat, and never swimming under the platform.
Weather and cold water
The National Weather Service says to move to shelter as soon as you hear thunder and stay there at least 30 minutes after the last thunder. For wind and waves, see reading a buoy report, which explains the National Weather Service's small craft advisories. In cold weather, the NWS says to dress for the water temperature, not the air, and that cold water can take away muscle control within seconds. TPWD's card says non-swimmers should wear a life jacket.
Keep reading
This is general information from the pages named below, on the dates shown, not legal or medical advice. Equipment rules depend on your boat's length and type and where you operate; check TPWD's required equipment pages and the Coast Guard for yours.
For more reading, we suggest these articles
- TPWD Outdoor Annual: Powerboats 16 Feet but Less Than 26 Feet, Required Safety Equipment (checked 2026-10-16)
- TPWD: Personal Flotation Device (PFD) Fit and Types (checked 2026-10-16)
- U.S. Coast Guard: Engine cut-off switch law (announcement) (checked 2026-10-16)
- TPWD: Fishing Tips for Beginners (PWD CD K0700-0808, 2020) (checked 2026-10-16)
- TPWD: Catch & Release Tips (checked 2026-10-09)
- MedlinePlus: Fishhook removal (checked 2026-10-16)
- American Red Cross: Bleeding, life-threatening external (checked 2026-10-16)
- Oregon State Marine Board: Carbon monoxide poisoning (checked 2026-10-16)
- National Weather Service: Lightning safety tips (checked 2026-10-16)
- National Weather Service: Heat illness (checked 2026-10-16)
- National Weather Service: Cold Water Safety (checked 2026-10-16)
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